travelling right, travelling light

The Docklands - once a much-mocked regeneration programme targetting London's East End - is today a burgeoning and undeniable success story. The high rise office buildings and expensive water front apartments that beautifully litter the landscape today were built on land abandoned by the ports throughout the mid 1900s as technology pushed ports further out of the City of London. Since the government initially refused to support its own regeneration initiatives with an underground network (although the Jubilee Line was later extended), an overground line - called the Docklands Light Railway or DLR - was built instead. Again, this was a mockery in development, but is today a highly efficient operation that impresses me more each time I use it.

Just can't get enough. Massive construction projects continue in the Canary Wharf Area.

A third unforgettable embarrasment in the Dockland's history was the Millennium Dome - an ill fated project modelled on the 1951 Festival of Britain which accelerated development of infrastructure - including an extension of the Jubilee Line underground network - into the North Greenwich peninsula. While the building of the Dome and the surrounding infrastructure was a success, the contents of the Dome were generally found wanting, resulting in the labelling of the Millennium project as a failure. Since then, the Dome has been taken over and transformed into an Entertainment Mecca. Visit the O2 today - as we did - and you can't fail but realize the importance of the Millennium Dome project as a basis for today's business success.

The Millennium Dome now called 'The O2' after the communications company.

With Lloyd and I camping out at the new Mr and Mrs Ross's Docklands' apartment in their honeymoon absence, we decided it would be fitting to learn more about the area with a visit to Museum in Docklands. We were really pleased we did! This museum presents - chronologically - the story of London, including the mysterious abandonment of the town by its creators - the Romans - in around 400AD.

On the left, an example of the Museum's multi-media approach. On the right, a picture we loved since it flawlessly combines the area's history with its future.

But the Museum's real strength is in its use of multiple media to communicate the story of the Docklands. We were impressed with touch screen monitors and sophisticated audio-visual presentations in addition to the static exhibits. We'd loved to have stayed longer, but had to leave after two hours to allow time for our Greenwich visit!

View of the Old Naval College (in the foreground) and Canary Wharf (in the background). A snapshot of Old and New.

And we didn't have too far to go, with Greenwich Just across the Thames from Canary Wharf. Since 1675, Greenwich has been home to the former Royal Observatory, Greenwich (not to be confused with the Royal Greenwich Observatory - don't ask). Just as we were running out of time on our World Trip, we thought homage to a site that once played such an important role in the management of time would be appropriate. Arriving on the simply fantastic DLR, we sought out the famous brass (actually now stainless steel) strip that marks the old astronomical prime meridian that is also the basis for longitude.

At the old Observatory, tourists queued to have their picture taken astride the line. What could we do but join in the fun?

It would have been rude not to....

Actually, it's perhaps not so surprising to learn that modern calculations actually result in the prime meridian being some 100 metres to the east, so all those people being photographed in the belief that they were half in the east and half in the west are sadly mistaken. They're actually firmly in the west.

After our quick wander around the Observatory (long since abandoned to escape light pollution in London's night skies), we headed down towards the Thames, via the Old Naval College which is a World Heritage Site. If the domes look familiar, it's because the College was designed by the same architect as St Paul's Cathedral, Sir Christopher Wren.

The buildings have been used for a myriad of purposes since being built around 1700. Until 1869, it was used as a hospital after which it was used by the Royal Navy for training until 1998 (hence the name). Since then, parts of the glorious campus have been used by the University of Greenwich, while others have simply been opened to the public. Over the festive season, the Old Naval College is one of several historic sites around London that offer ice skating!

We'd probably have walked around longer, but the weather had taken a turn for the worst and we found ourselves in literally freezing winds which left us all with some frozen body part or other. Fortunately, we were able to catch a boat from Greenwich Pier, heading towards Westminster, where the parents were able to thaw out while Lloyd and I braved the weather (for which we were woefully ill-prepared in terms of clothing!) to enjoy the view top-side.

Entrance to the Greenwich Foot Tunnel which links Greenwich to the Isle of Dogs. The Tunnel was opened in 1902.

I'm embarassed to admit that this was the first time I'd ever been on the Thames! The ride would take about 35 minutes and - even if it was bitterly cold - we were treated to a stunning sunset, a fitting end - we thought - to the final daylight of our adventure.

But our day wasn't over yet! As twilight approached at 4pm, we arrived at Westminster just in time to hear Big Ben sing. I used to work seconds away from here, but I will never tire of the beauty of the Palace of Westminster. The addition of the London Eye, just across the Thames, has undoubtedly rejuvenated the South Bank and the County Hall which, until 1990, housed government functions, notably the Greater London Council which was abolished in 1986.

Today, County Hall houses a variety of residential and entertainment concessions, including the London Aquarium. We're also guessing that current exhibitions include something to do with Star Wars and Dali (no, not together although I can definitely see that working....) although we didn't look into it.

And there were two more storm troopers that day, with my parents braving the freezing weather and my overly optimistic distance estimates to keep Lloyd and I company. Thankfully, a hearty prize awaited and - after an hour long walk along the river bank in sub-zero temperatures - we stumbled into a pub in between the reconstructed Golden Hinde and the Globe. With a river view, we enjoyed traditional british fare (pie and chips, fish and chips... you get the idea!) and a few drinks to wash it down and warm us up. I guess I'll start my New Year's Resolutions in February this year...

A large area has been given over to skateboarders and grafitti artists in the basement of the Festival Hall. Fantastic! On the right, a view of St Paul's Cathedral.

Thanks to my parents for a truly fantastic day which perfectly wrapped up our visit to England, and - indeed - our World Trip. After our very full day, we fell into a fitful sleep, no doubt disturbed by dreams of challenges ahead.

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On the bottom, the two minute long walkway between the entrance of the O2 and the North Greenwich Tube station.

New Year arrived too soon for so many reasons.

First, we'd scarcely had time to recover from D'ell and Emma's wedding just two days prior, and it required some effort to get into the party mode again. I know, it's a hard life, right?

Second, of course, the passing of such a significant milestone could only highlight the impending conclusion of our journey. We're excited, undoubtedly, to return home and get back to work, but it's been such an adventure that there's inevitably some nostalgia as we wrap things up.

Champagne helped on both counts, and we enjoyed a wonderful meal at Tapa Tapa in the new O2 arena in London's Docklands. After a feast that we couldn't possibly finish, we headed into a New Year concert headlined by British pop group Take That. If you know anything about Take That it's probably that it's the band Robbie Williams used to belong to. While the other four members have reunited for this tour, Robbie has so far declined to participate, so we spent much of the evening hoping that he would decide to make a surprise appearance for what was a much hyped - and televised - New Year performance.

Even if Robbie failed to materialize, we had a super night. D'ell and I bopped away to all the sugery pop-songs we remembered while an exhausted Emma and intrigued Lloyd (who didn't know any of the songs at all!) could do little more than look on, stupified at our antics.

At midnight, Lloyd and I counted down from ten and then spontaneously screamed at each other, the full realization that our adventure is approaching its end. What can we say? We have been exceptionally fortunate to have had the opportunity to travel for six months, and even more lucky to have enjoyed the wholehearted support of friends and family. So, a special Happy New Year to our parents, to Roger and D'ell, and to Dave, Martin and Sarah. We wish you all the best for 2008.

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A lot of people did tell me that I wouldn't sleep much the night before our wedding, and they were right. The surprise was that this wasn't due to wedding-day excitement so much as my husband-to-be crashing back into our room in the small hours after an extended drinking session in the bar. Now I understand why couples who are getting married are supposed to spend the night before their big day in separate rooms. In two decades, I might be able to look back and see the funny side but suffice to say that - on saturday morning - I wasn't very happy with the best man, since I did ask him to make sure that the groom got to bed relatively early in preparation for our big day. Simon would argue, of course, that 2am IS early....

A few restless hours later, our alarm went off and D’ell, who does not need much sleep and is always full of energy, got up to go and get his hair cut. I managed to snooze for a bit but then also decided to get out of bed, get some breakfast and head down to the beauty salon. A few hours short on the beauty sleep, I needed all the help I could get in the hair and make up department!!!

A touch of champagne to help me forgive the best man; and Jacquie doing her best impression of Cousin It.

In the salon, I was greeted by my two wonderful bridesmaids and our hairdressers and make up artist. We chatted, shared some stories about the night before and the transformation started. A few coffees later, lots of foundation, highlighter, eye make up, mascara and lipstick and I started to feel like the bride to be. Malin, my hairdresser, spent a lot of time doing my hair and I must admit that it turned out beautifully! Jacquie and Jill also went through the transformation and we did all have some interesting hairstyles before the final versions! A good few hours later the three of us headed back to the hotel to get changed, looking and feeling like movie stars!

Transformation complete. Thank goodness for make up!

As we walked into the hotel, we narrowly avoided walking right into the boys as they headed down to the pub for a pre-ceremony drink. We were so short of time that I hardly had any time to get nervous at all. People in the wedding party went in and out of our room and I did feel a bit guilty when I shouted to my mum and my future mum in-law to get out of the room since I quickly needed to get changed! My bridesmaids joined me a few minutes later to help me with the final touches, and we enjoyed a quick glass of champagne and some snacks (chips and mayo less than an hour before the ceremony!) so we'd have energy for the rest of the day.

Where's a crochet hook when you need it?

Having successfully avoided smearing mayo all over the perfect make-up, the photographer arrived at 2.30pm and took some candid pictures. It was raining, so we had to quickly arrange a taxi for the mothers. Before we knew it, my Dad was knocking on the suite door to take me by the arm down to our stretch white limo. The Town Hall is only 300 metres from the hotel, but the weather in Sweden at this time is very unpredictable and we did not want to risk it by having to walk in gusts and rain ruining our hair and make up. Not to mention our shoes and dresses! In fact, Jacquie's heels were so high, I'm not sure she'd have made it if she'd had to walk!

Meanwhile, the boys were making their way on foot.

We effectively crawled from the hotel, as we had to give the photographer time to hoof it to the Town Hall in order to meet us! As we waited in the limo, I wondered how D'ell was feeling....

Photographer at the ready, it was finally time to climb out of the limo. With the groom and best man waiting inside, we had the honour of being met by Lloyd, Steve (friend of bride and groom) and John (Jacquie and D'ell's father) all dressed in their beautiful kilts. Trust me, they did get a lot of looks from the locals who don't see men in skirts that often!

My dad escorted me into the building and I was followed by my bridesmaids who made sure my dress did not touch the ground. Since we arrived a few minutes late (I thought I was supposed to do that!), we were welcomed by some glum faces in the waiting area. Turns out we were the first (late!) of 22 couples getting married that day. But when we walked into the room we were surrounded by smiles all around, with our friends and family standing in a semi-circle around the room. Up front, we faced a tiny officiant who looked like Frodo from Lord of the Rings, prompting a few cheeky glances among the group up front: my stunning bridesmaids on my left, my husband to be on my right, and next to him, the best man and my dad.

Married by Frodo. Lord of the Wedding Rings.

We wanted a brief ceremony, and - in the event - it was less than five minutes long. It sounds short but believe me if D'ell had had his way it would have been even shorter! My Dad did a fantastic job translating the ceremony from Swedish, but D'ell apparently just couldn't wait to marry me and kept on answering the questions in Swedish before the English translation, which raised chuckles around the room. A little after 3.05pm, we were pronounced husband and wife.

After hugs all round, we headed back to the limo, this time squeezing in the entire wedding party (both sets of parents, two bridesmaids, best man and Steve in addition to the new Mr and Mrs John D'ell Ross!). Simon - who may have enjoyed a little too much champagne already that morning - cracked open another bottle which we shared between everyone in the car.

Back at the hotel we were greeted by our family and friends. We had champagne and some lovely canapés. The photographers had prepared the photo shoot in the staircase at the hotel and we were all ready to have our pictures taken. This was superbly managed by my bridesmaid Jacquie. She had a list of all different groups and people were going up and down the stairs and I am sure that the photographer got a lot of exercise running up and down to change and make sure that people’s clothes were in order. I think that he arranged my dress a hundred times. He was very much into details. I must admit that I loved every minute of the photo shoot but perhaps my guests were a little bit bored. It did take a bit longer than planned. However they were getting plenty of champagne and after a few hours we all headed down to the dining room for the party to continue!

We felt bad for our guests that the photos took so long, but at least they were being plied with champagne and canapes in lush surroundings!

And what a night…the food was superb, the wine was amazing and the speeches were fabulous. My parents had prepared a wonderful presentation of photos of my life, to which they added witty anecdotes which got everyone laughing.

My parents during their presentation. They picked all the most embarassing pictures to embarass me!

One of the biggest surprises was when my husband started to say his speech in perfect Swedish. Later he admitted that he has been going to a private tutor for four months learning Swedish - just a perfect wedding present and a wonderful surprise. Suffice to say that he is truly an amazing man.

My brother, Fredrick, and Markus entertained us with a Swedish drinking song, although I'm not sure anyone needed encouragement with the seven course dinner, each course paired with a perfectly matching alcoholic beverage!

The Swedes were intent on showing the Scots they could drink more, faster, longer....

Steve contemplating the Schnapps...

This was beyond any doubt one of the best days in my life and something that I will never ever forget. Thank you to all our guests for coming to our big day and thank you to Jacquie and Jill for keeping me sane, plying me with just the perfect amount of champagne and reminding me to breath and to eat. Also for looking after my jewellery, mobile phone, my jacket and my flowers. Also a big thank you to Steve, Lloyd and Simon who made sure that the evening ran smoothly. And a big thank you to my dad and family, my new in-laws and all my friends for making this a truly memorable day that I will cherish for the rest of my life.

Finally thank you to my incredible husband D’ell for making me a very happy woman and wife!!!

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