Zambia

For some crazy reason we seem to be getting up early. Like, Army days early. Almost every day. We decided to set out and see the Victoria Falls at sunrise. Of course we hadn’t checked when that actually was, so we set out at 0600 to the park, which we reached a mere 10 minutes later. The park should open at 0600, but as our driver (same great guy for 2 days – Chris was his name) told us – Zambians love to make money, but they just don’t like to show up on time to earn it!

Which was a lucky stroke, as Chris decided to give us a quick private tour to the bridge between Zambia and Zimbabwe. Needless to say, it’s not the most secure crossings I’ve ever seen. The first sign was the fence (which a customs official, ironically, unlocked and “opened” for us) as it sagged on supports held up by strands of what was once fence, but were now strands through which cars could drive! The next sign of low security, and high tolerance for “cross-border incursions” were the smugglers making their way along the train tracks, which sat just below the online of site in a 6 foot trench road-side. The situation in Zimbabwe being as poor as it is, the people smuggle beer, goods and other junk to Zambia to make a living. No weapons in sight, I felt fine making our way onto the bridge for our first breathtaking view of Victoria Falls just before sunrise. We also added Zimbabwe to our itinerary, but just for a few minutes, as we crossed the border mid-bridge, and then made our way back.

After our incursion into Zimbabwe, we found the park open and set out find a photographic spot or two. Unluckily, I lost our point and shoot canon that has a waterproof housing, as some of the most dramatic scenes to be shot were literally underwater! In any event, we found a couple nice places for some pics, but they can scant do justice to the majesty of the view. Definitely something to be seen (and heard!) in person.

Livingstone has turned out to be a nice respite from crazy large cities like Nairobi and Cairo (not that we spent time there, but on the roads at least!). We had an interesting dinner at a local place in Livingstone that serves ethnic African – so basic meats and veggies with a very un-appealing maise-starch-cornmeal stand-in that doubles as either glue or mortar depending on the consistency or application!

In any event, the meal sufficed, but the best part was the interaction with the local staff who were amazingly friendly and wonderful to talk to. I’ll eat anything as long as I can meet the locals and have a nice time! And beer and fatigue usually help. That and a wonderful sunset, seem to be the end to a perfect day!